Alternatives to the Rolex Submariner for all budgets

The Seiko SNZF17 - part of the Seiko 5 Sports watches family and also called the “Sea Urchin” - can be seen as a very afforable diving watch with a similar style to the Rolex Submariner. The reference SNZF17 has a black bezel insert and a black dial, whereas the SNZF15 has a “Pepsi” (blue and red) bezel and dark blue dial.

This watch can be for many an ideal balance between price and style: the diameter of the SNZF model is 41mm and it is 13.2mm thick, making it a great fit for most wrists. It is powered by the reliable 7S26 automatic (self-winding) mechanical movement, offering a day-date complication. The water resistance of the Seiko “Sea Urchin” is 100m, making it suitable for surface swimming.

• Ref: Seiko SNZF17, SNZF15
• Diameter: 41.00 mm
• Thickness: 13.20 mm
• Lug width: 22.00 mm
• Caliber: Seiko 7S26

Following the success of the Orient Mako II, the Orient Mako III (ref RA-AA0001B) is a fantastic diver. It is a great entry-level diving watch that retails at a price of around $250. It has a 42mm diameter and a thickness of 13mm.

This diver has its own identity, meaning it is not an homage and that it has an authentic, timeless and well-executed design. However, some might regret that the Mako III lost the numerals that were present on the dial of the Mako II. The hour markers and hands contrast well with the black dial, they are covered with some LumiBrite to ensure a high level of readability in the dark. The water resistance is 200m and the lug width of this watch is conveniently 22mm.

• Ref: RA-AA0001B, RA-AA0002L, RA-AA0003R, RA-AA0004E
• Diameter: 42.00 mm
• Thickness: 13.00 mm
• Lug width: 22.00 mm
• Caliber: Orient F6922

The SKX007/SKX009 is a very respectable diving watch that many people have in their collection. It is very affordable and easily found around $250 on eBay. It is very solid and is comfortable to wear.

The water resistance is 200m. It sports the Seiko 7S26 automatic movement which is a reliable workhorse and offers 40 hours of power reserve. Although this movement does not have handwinding and hacking capabilities, unlike the 4R36.

• Ref: SKX007K1, SKX007K2
• Diameter: 42.00 mm
• Thickness: 13.25 mm
• Lug width: 22.00 mm
• Caliber: Seiko 7S26

The diameter of this timepiece is 42.5mm and it is 13.25mm thick: it definitely has a healthy wrist presence, but is surprisingly comfortable to wear despite its size. The water resistance is 200m and it is ISO certified for diving activities.

The Seiko SKX007 is often mentioned as an affordable Rolex Submariner alternative, it has even found its place in collections made of much pricier timepieces. Others see it as the ultimate toolwatch that can take a beating without breaking a sweat.

• Ref: SKX009K1, SKX009K2
• Diameter: 42.00 mm
• Thickness: 13.25 mm
• Lug width: 22.00 mm
• Caliber: Seiko 7S26

This German-made homage to the Rolex Submariner is particularly well made and is providing amazing value for money in the world of mechanical watches.

The dimensions of the Ocean One are slightly bigger than its luxury counterpart: 42mm diameter, 13mm thick, 22mm lug width.

However, a 39mm version is available on some models, notably the Ocean One 39 black ceramic (103-0981) which is a serious affordable alternative to the Rolex Submariner. Those 39mm models are perfect for smaller wrists, although they have a similar thickness to the 42mm ones, they have a lug width of 20mm.

• Ref: OCEAN 1 BLACK Aluminium 103-0903, BLACK Ceramic 103-0902
• Diameter: 42.00 mm
• Thickness: 13.00 mm
• Lug width: 22.00 mm
• Caliber: ETA 2824-2/SW 200, élaboré

As you can see on the pictures, the Steinhart watches look very similar to the Rolex Submariner, they sometimes have been criticized for their very close resemblance.

The Rolex-like models have a black dial, with applied indices and the famous Mercedes hands. They are protected by a saphire crystal which also features a “Cyclop” magnifier. The lume on hands and indices is SuperLuminova, which provides a decent legibility in the dark through its bluish glow.

• Ref: Ocean One 39 black ceramic (103-0981), green (103-0725)
• Diameter: 39.00 mm
• Thickness: 13.00 mm
• Lug width: 20.00 mm
• Caliber: ETA 2824-2/SW 200, élaboré

The San Martin Vintage Sub should satisfy fans of vintage Rolexes and Tudors who are looking for medium size vintage diver homages. San Martin is a Chinese brand that has become increasingly popular because of its amazing value for money. This model can be seen as a very afforable diving watch with a similar style to the vintage Rolex Submariners like the “big crown” models the San Martin page on Ali Express mentions the 6200 reference, which is a famous Rolex Sumariner model with the 369 dial. The reference SN004-G has a black bezel insert with gold numerals and a black dial with a gilt chapter ring.

This watch can be for many an ideal balance between price and style: the diameter of the SN004-G model is 38mm, the lug-to-lug distance is 46mm and it is 13mm thick, making it a great fit for most wrists. It is powered by the reliable NH35 automatic (self-winding) mechanical movement, but the dial has no date, which might upset a few due to the first “ghost” position when pulling the crown to set the time. The water resistance of this San Martin Vintage Submariner homage is 200m, making it suitable for swimming and diving.

• Ref: San Martin SN004-G
• Diameter: 38.00 mm
• Thickness: 13.00 mm
• Lug width: 20.00 mm
• Caliber: Seiko NH35

The Seiko Prospex SBDC029 “Shogun” is a great diving watch. The Prospex line is designed for professionals and this watch is no exception.

This watch wears quite big, it has a diameter of 44mm without crown and measures 50mm lug to lug. The case is made of titanium so it is quite light on the wrist, despite its size! This watch has a water resistance of 200m, and is ISO certified for professional diving. The lumed dial and hands are protected by a hardlex crystal. The Seiko lume is notorious for its quality and it will provide a long lasting glow throughout the night, ensuring legibility at all times.

• Ref: Seiko Prospex SBDC029
• Diameter: 44.00 mm
• Thickness: 13.30 mm
• Lug width: 22.00 mm
• Caliber: Seiko 6R15

The Glycine combat sub is a popular watch that offers great value for money and is often mentioned as an affordable alternative to the Rolex Submariner. It's available in different sizes and colors, ranging from 42mm to 48mm. It features an in-house Glycine automatic movement GL 224, which is very reliable and has a 38h power reserve.

The combat sub has a date function with a display at the 3 o'clock position. The glass is made of scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.

• Ref: Glycine GL0081, GL0249, GL0092
• Diameter: 42.00 mm
• Thickness: 10.60 mm
• Lug width: 22.00 mm
• Caliber: Glycine GL 224

The uni-directional rotating bezel is made of silver-tone stainless steel with a black aluminum bezel, providing a very classic and timeless look.

This divers watch is relatively thin for its size, with a thickness of 10.6mm. The case back is solid, with the Glycine logo etched in. The combat sub has a water resistance of 200m and is available on a nato or a steel bracelet.

• Ref: Glycine GL0083, GL0076, GL0078, GL0087
• Diameter: 42.00 mm
• Thickness: 10.60 mm
• Lug width: 22.00 mm
• Caliber: Glycine GL 224

The Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 is an affordable Rolex submariner alternative that comes with the rich Swiss heritage of the Tissot brand (founded in 1853). This particular Powermatic version was introduced at Baselworld in March 2018. We love the model T1204071704100, which has a gorgeous black/blue sunburst dial. We can find in this watch some subtle influences of the Rolex Submariner and the Omega Seamaster, but it is a timepiece that has its own identity. The Tissot Seastar might be the perfect entry-level luxury dive watch for you, let's find out why.

• Ref: T1204071704100, T1204071105100
• Diameter: 43.00 mm
• Thickness: 12.70 mm
• Lug width: 21.00 mm
• Caliber: Tissot Powermatic 80

The design of the case is very classy and elegant, making it work well with casual outfits while not looking out of place in more formal occasions. The case is made of 316L stainless steel, which has a diameter of 43mm and is 12.7mm thick. This gives the Seastar a generous wrists presence, the 12.7mm thickness is definitely to be appreciated, giving the watch a slimmer appearance and feel. It is polished on crown guards, lugs, and the extruded sides of the case. The rest has a brushed finish. The lugs are long and slender and contribute to the refined look of this watch, the lug-to-lug distance is 47.3mm, which might feel too big for some of you. The good looking crown at 3 o'clock is signed with a “T” (for Tissot) and is protected by crown guards, that have a similar style to the ones of the Rolex Submariner.

• Ref: T1204071104100, T1204071103100
• Diameter: 43.00 mm
• Thickness: 12.70 mm
• Lug width: 21.00 mm
• Caliber: Tissot Powermatic 80

Lorier is a fairly recent brand that has encountered a great success with it’s Neptune diver watch. This timepiece has a great vintage diver look and is simple yet very elegant.

The watch sports a Seiko NH35A movement (4R35 unbranded), with a domed plexiglass lens protecting a dial than can be black, blue or black “gilt” depending on the model. The hands glow very bright in the dark thanks to their BG W9 Super-LumiNova lume.

• Ref: Lorier Neptune
• Diameter: 39.00 mm
• Thickness: 12.00 mm
• Lug width: 20.00 mm
• Caliber: Seiko NH35

Steinhart is quite famous for its homage models of the modern Rolex Submariner, but it also issued some watches inspired by some vintage Rolex Submariner watches, that have their own identity:

• The Ocean Vintage Military (OVM) (ref 103-065)

• The OCEAN One VINTAGE Red (ref 103-0657)

The dimensions of these vintage-looking models are: 42mm diameter, 13mm thick, 22mm lug width.

It is also worth noting that a limited edition with a 39mm of the OVM was launched by Gnomon watches, limited to 500 pieces. They are sold out but you can find some on the used market, with a little bit of patience and research.

• Ref: Ocean Vintage Military (OVM) 103-0658
• Diameter: 42.00 mm
• Thickness: 13.00 mm
• Lug width: 22.00 mm
• Caliber: ETA 2824-2/SW 200, élaboré

The lume on the dial and hands of those models is Super Luminova “Old Radium”, giving those new watches a vintage look.

The watch sports a classic yet reliable Swiss ETA 2824-2 (or Selita SW 200) élaboré ( +/- 7sec/day max +/-20sec/day).

Each of those models can be seen as a great alternative to the vintage Rolex models like the Rolex Milsub, or the Rolex Submariner 1680 (famous for its red text) - which are now prohibitively expensive. Despite their vintage look, those Steinhart models have a 300m water resistance!

• Ref: Ocean One Vintage Red 103-0657
• Diameter: 42.00 mm
• Thickness: 13.00 mm
• Lug width: 22.00 mm
• Caliber: ETA 2824-2/SW 200, élaboré

The Khaki Navy Scuba from Hamilton is perfectly suited to summer days at sea as well as to a day in the office. Its H-10 automatic movement with an impressive 80hours power reserve offers performance and precision.

The watch is is water-resistant up to 100m and available in three color combinations. The eye-catching yet timeless design makes it a great and affordable alternative to more luxurious models such as the Rolex Submariner.

• Ref: Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba
• Diameter: 40.00 mm
• Thickness: 13.00 mm
• Lug width: 20.00 mm
• Caliber: Hamilton H-10

Christopher Ward is a relatively new brand that offers amazing value for the price. Their C60 Trident Pro 600 divers watches are very slick and have great features: ceramic bezel, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, 600m resistance, SuperLuminova SLN-T-C1 lume, date function, signed crown.

The watch sports the automatic movement Sellita SW200-1 which is very reliable and offers 38 hours of power reserve.

• Ref: Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 600 38mm
• Diameter: 38.00 mm
• Thickness: 12.70 mm
• Lug width: 20.00 mm
• Caliber: Selitta SW200-1

A great thing about Christopher Ward is that they often provide watches in different sizes, ranging from 38mm to 42mm. My favourite is the Christopher Ward C60 Trident in 38mm on a steel bracelet with a black bezel.

The C60 Trident Pro was released a decade ago and has seen 3 evolutions: MK1, MK2 and MK3. While the MK2 version introduced 600m water resistance and ceramic bezels, the MK3 adds fully-lumed bezels, new case design, new hands and a 40mm case option.

• Ref: Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 600 40mm
• Diameter: 40.00 mm
• Thickness: 12.95 mm
• Lug width: 20.00 mm
• Caliber: Selitta SW200-1

Squale is a family business based in Milano (Italy) since 1946. This company was providing cases and parts to a lot of other brands such as Tag Heuer or Blancpain.

Priced at $570 USD, this watch is about 2-3 times more expensive than a mid-range Orient or SKX divers watch. Looking at it from the other end of the price curve, it is less than half the cost of the Oris Divers Sixty five.

The Squale Atmos 20 provides, however, a lot of value and quality for its price. With a diameter of 40mm, 12.1m in thickness, 20mm of lug width, AR-coated sapphire glass, an ETA 2824-2 caliber, and 200m resistance... one must admit that it is a serious alternative!

The bezel is made of Ceramic, it looks shiny and gives the watch a premium feel. The dial is a glossy black with printed silver branding that looks nice and sharp. The polished indices contribute greatly to the premium look.

This watch also has a “maxi” version, which has a matte dial and printed indices. This latter has also a Ceramic dial, which we feel does not look as good as with the glossy dial and applied indices of the standard version.

The handset is nicely polished and appropriately sized. The inner chapter ring is brushed and simple, it seems rather plain compared to the Submariner's one that has “ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX” engraved all around.

• Ref: Squale Atmos 20 1545
• Diameter: 40.00 mm
• Thickness: 12.10 mm
• Lug width: 20.00 mm
• Caliber: ETA 2824-2

Oris is an awesome affordable luxury brand that makes understated products with amazing quality for the price... and keep in mind that in Grey Market sites, a 50%+ discount is not rare for this brand. The Oris Sixty-Five was introduced a couple of years ago and was an instant hit. It is a re-edition of an old model dating from 1965 (hence the name) which was quite important for the brand.

This timepiece is available in 42mm (733 7720 4054), 40mm (733 7707 4354) or 36mm (733 7747 4055) sizes, 36mm and 42mm models have the date display at 3 o'clock whereas the 40mm models have it at 6.

• Ref: 733 7747 4055
• Diameter: 36.00 mm
• Thickness: 12.90 mm
• Lug width: 17.00 mm
• Caliber: Oris 733

This three-hander is powered by the Oris calibre 733, that is based on the Selitta SW200-1 from which you can expect 38-hours of power. Although its water resistance is 100m, its vintage look appeals to a large audience and with modern mechanics, you have a good looking, mechanical and reliable watch.

The Sixty-Five has a beautiful domed sapphire crystal and vintage aluminum insert over a PVD bezel with faux vintage Lume on the indices but with a look that matches beautifully to the case. The overall look is less rugged, more elegant... a true modern vintage.

• Ref: 733 7707 4354
• Diameter: 40.00 mm
• Thickness: 12.90 mm
• Lug width: 20.00 mm
• Caliber: Oris 733

While Tudor used to be known as the poor man’s Rolex, they have long since stepped out from behind Rolex’s shadow. With an impressive and great looking collection, they have created a fantastic catalog of watches over the years. Their best-selling model, the Black Bay, is a great example of a modern tool watch with historic influences. Our preferred model is the 79220B, despite it coming with a standard movement (ETA 2824) like all models produced before 2015. This version resembles the historic model a bit more with its old rose logo and curved writing on the dial.

• Ref: 79220B, 79220N, 79220R
• Diameter: 41.00 mm
• Thickness: 13.00 mm
• Lug width: 22.00 mm
• Caliber: ETA 2824

On new models like the PVD coated Tudor Black Bay Dark (79230DK), the rose log has been replaced by a shield. The movement on the 79230 models has been developed in-house, it is the COSC certified MT5602 automatic movement. The rotating bezel is in aluminum and is available in black, red and blue.

• Ref: 79230R, 79230DK
• Diameter: 41.00 mm
• Thickness: 13.00 mm
• Lug width: 22.00 mm
• Caliber: Tudor MT5602

The Omega Seamaster 300m diver is a legendary watch! This timepiece offers 300m water resistance, older models had an aluminum bezel (ref. 2531.80) whereas new versions have a ceramic one (ref. 212.30.41.20.03.001). The Omega Seamaster Professional 300m diver was first featured in the famous James Bond movie “GoldenEye”, worn by Pierce Brosnan. Interestingly, the model used in this movie was quartz powered (ref. 2541.80) which had a 1438 movement before 1994 and a 1538 movement later on. The 2531.80 has the same look and feel, but houses an automatic ETA 1120 movement.

• Ref: 2541.80
• Diameter: 41.00 mm
• Thickness: 10.00 mm
• Lug width: 20.00 mm
• Caliber: Omega 1438/1538

The watch diameter is in the 41-42mm range, but there are some midsize models at 36.5mm depending on the year of manufacture. Older models have the Omega 1120 or 2500 co-axial movement (212.30.41.20.03.001) whereas the later versions (2018) have the 8800 co-axial movement, which is METAS certified (stricter than COSC, and antimagnetic to fields up to 15000 Gauss).

• Ref: 2531.80
• Diameter: 41.00 mm
• Thickness: 10.00 mm
• Lug width: 20.00 mm
• Caliber: ETA 1120