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Designed by Gerald Genta in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was the watch that invented the luxury steel sports watch. At a time when steel was considered a utilitarian material, AP dared to case a watch in it and charge a premium, with an octagonal bezel inspired by a diving helmet, secured by eight hexagonal screws, and an integrated bracelet whose tapered links took hours to finish by hand. The Royal Oak was initially mocked, then became one of the most influential designs in watchmaking history.

The reference 15500ST, introduced in 2019, refined the formula with improved proportions and the in-house Calibre 4302, a self-winding movement beating at 4 Hz with a 70 hour power reserve, visible through the sapphire case back. The Grande Tapisserie dial, with its engine-turned waffle pattern, remains one of the most recognizable dials in the industry.

• Ref: 15500ST.OO.1220ST.01
• Diameter: 41.00 mm
• Thickness: 10.50 mm
• Lug width: 21.00 mm
• Caliber: Calibre 4302

The Citizen Tsuyosa, reference NJ0150, is the watch that made the integrated bracelet trend accessible to everyone. Its name comes from the Japanese word for the rainy season hydrangea flower, and it delivers exactly what the Royal Oak silhouette demands: a compact polished case, a bracelet that flows seamlessly from the lugs, and a dial with enough depth to catch the light.

Unlike most watches in this price range, the Tsuyosa is powered by a true mechanical heart: the in-house Citizen Caliber 8210 automatic movement, winding itself with a ~42 hour power reserve at 21,600 vibrations per hour. Combined with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, it offers a specification list that would have been unthinkable at this price a few years ago.

• Ref: NJ0150-81E
• Diameter: 40.00 mm
• Thickness: 11.80 mm
• Lug width: 22.00 mm
• Caliber: Caliber 8210

Citizen introduced the Promaster Tough as the definitive affordable titanium tool watch. Launched in the lineage of the legendary 1994 Ray Mears Aqualand, the BN0211-50E proves that a genuinely tough, lightweight titanium watch no longer requires a luxury budget. Its monocoque (monobloc) case is machined from a single block of Super Titanium, Citizen's titanium with the Duratect surface hardening treatment that makes it far more scratch resistant than raw Grade 2 titanium.

The Promaster Tough is powered by the Eco-Drive caliber E168, a solar quartz movement that converts any light into energy and never needs a battery change. Once fully charged, it runs for months in complete darkness, which is exactly what you want from a watch designed to be forgotten about until you need it.

• Ref: BN0211-50E
• Diameter: 42.00 mm
• Thickness: 10.00 mm
• Lug width: 22.00 mm
• Caliber: Eco-Drive E168

The San Martin Vintage Sub should satisfy fans of vintage Rolexes and Tudors who are looking for medium size vintage diver homages. San Martin is a Chinese brand that has become increasingly popular because of its amazing value for money. This model can be seen as a very afforable diving watch with a similar style to the vintage Rolex Submariners like the “big crown” models the San Martin page on Ali Express mentions the 6200 reference, which is a famous Rolex Sumariner model with the 369 dial. The reference SN004-G has a black bezel insert with gold numerals and a black dial with a gilt chapter ring.

This watch can be for many an ideal balance between price and style: the diameter of the SN004-G model is 38mm, the lug-to-lug distance is 46mm and it is 13mm thick, making it a great fit for most wrists. It is powered by the reliable NH35 automatic (self-winding) mechanical movement, but the dial has no date, which might upset a few due to the first “ghost” position when pulling the crown to set the time. The water resistance of this San Martin Vintage Submariner homage is 200m, making it suitable for swimming and diving.

• Ref: San Martin SN004-G
• Diameter: 38.00 mm
• Thickness: 13.00 mm
• Lug width: 20.00 mm
• Caliber: Seiko NH35

The Seiko SNZF17 - part of the Seiko 5 Sports watches family and also called the “Sea Urchin” - can be seen as a very afforable diving watch with a similar style to the Rolex Submariner. The reference SNZF17 has a black bezel insert and a black dial, whereas the SNZF15 has a “Pepsi” (blue and red) bezel and dark blue dial.

This watch can be for many an ideal balance between price and style: the diameter of the SNZF model is 41mm and it is 13.2mm thick, making it a great fit for most wrists. It is powered by the reliable 7S26 automatic (self-winding) mechanical movement, offering a day-date complication. The water resistance of the Seiko “Sea Urchin” is 100m, making it suitable for surface swimming.

• Ref: Seiko SNZF17, SNZF15
• Diameter: 41.00 mm
• Thickness: 13.20 mm
• Lug width: 22.00 mm
• Caliber: Seiko 7S26