Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15500ST

Designed by Gerald Genta in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was the watch that invented the luxury steel sports watch. At a time when steel was considered a utilitarian material, AP dared to case a watch in it and charge a premium, with an octagonal bezel inspired by a diving helmet, secured by eight hexagonal screws, and an integrated bracelet whose tapered links took hours to finish by hand. The Royal Oak was initially mocked, then became one of the most influential designs in watchmaking history.

The reference 15500ST, introduced in 2019, refined the formula with improved proportions and the in-house Calibre 4302, a self-winding movement beating at 4 Hz with a 70 hour power reserve, visible through the sapphire case back. The Grande Tapisserie dial, with its engine-turned waffle pattern, remains one of the most recognizable dials in the industry.

Ref: 15500ST.OO.1220ST.01
Diameter: 41.00 mm
Thickness: 10.50 mm
Lug width: 21.00 mm
Caliber: Calibre 4302

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15500ST is a 41mm steel watch with the iconic octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet. Available on eBay.

The 15500ST measures 41mm in diameter and 10.5mm in thickness, with a 50m water resistance and a screw-down crown. The integrated stainless steel bracelet with AP folding clasp has no traditional spring bars; it flows directly from the case, which is what makes the design so difficult to imitate convincingly at a low price.

The Royal Oak starts at several times the price of a Rolex Submariner and waiting lists at boutiques are long, which is exactly why the secondary market and the world of affordable alternatives are so interesting. A new generation of integrated bracelet watches from Tissot, Citizen and Casio proves that the silhouette Genta drew in one night can be enjoyed at almost any budget.